Among the essential fatty acids that influence skin health, gamma-linolenic acid occupies a unique position. This omega-6 fatty acid—abbreviated as GLA—cannot be synthesized by the human body and must be obtained from external sources. What makes GLA particularly interesting for skincare is its role in the inflammatory cascade: rather than promoting inflammation like some omega-6 fatty acids, GLA actually helps calm inflammatory responses through a metabolic pathway that scientists have studied extensively over the past four decades.
Understanding how GLA works at the molecular level helps explain why borage oil, which contains the highest natural concentration of this fatty acid, has become such a valued ingredient in formulations designed to support skin recovery and comfort.
The Biochemistry of GLA
Gamma-linolenic acid is an 18-carbon polyunsaturated fatty acid with three double bonds. Its chemical structure—specifically the position of those double bonds—determines how it behaves in the body. When GLA enters cells, it follows a metabolic pathway that ultimately influences the production of hormone-like substances called eicosanoids.
The pathway works like this: GLA is first converted to dihomo-gamma-linolenic acid (DGLA) through an elongation reaction. DGLA then serves as a precursor for prostaglandin E1 (PGE1), one of the body's key anti-inflammatory signaling molecules. PGE1 helps regulate blood vessel dilation, platelet aggregation, and inflammatory responses throughout the body.
What makes this pathway noteworthy is that it bypasses the enzyme delta-6-desaturase, which many people have difficulty activating efficiently. Under normal circumstances, the body converts dietary linoleic acid (abundant in vegetable oils) into GLA using this enzyme. However, various factors—including aging, stress, alcohol consumption, and certain nutritional deficiencies—can impair delta-6-desaturase activity. When this happens, the body cannot produce adequate GLA despite consuming plenty of linoleic acid.
By supplying GLA directly through topical application or dietary supplementation, you essentially skip the bottleneck step and allow the beneficial pathway to proceed.
Research on GLA and Skin Conditions
Scientific interest in GLA's effects on skin intensified in the 1980s, driven largely by the work of Dr. David Horrobin and his colleagues. Horrobin proposed that many inflammatory skin conditions might stem from impaired essential fatty acid metabolism—specifically, the inability to convert linoleic acid to GLA efficiently.
One of the landmark studies in this area was published in the British Journal of Dermatology in 1987. Researchers led by Morse and colleagues examined the effects of evening primrose oil (which contains GLA, though less than borage oil) on patients with atopic dermatitis. The study found significant improvements in skin condition after 12 weeks of oral supplementation, with particular benefits for itching and overall skin appearance.
Subsequent research explored topical application of GLA-rich oils. A study published in the Journal of Oleo Science in 2005 examined how borage oil affected skin barrier function when applied directly. The researchers found that topical borage oil helped restore barrier integrity and reduce transepidermal water loss—the escape of moisture through the skin that contributes to dryness and irritation.
More recent work has focused on understanding the mechanisms behind these effects. Research published in the Journal of Lipid Research has demonstrated that GLA incorporates into cell membrane phospholipids, influencing membrane fluidity and the activity of membrane-bound enzymes. These structural changes appear to affect how cells respond to inflammatory signals.
GLA Versus Other Omega-6 Fatty Acids
The reputation of omega-6 fatty acids in health circles has suffered somewhat in recent years, with many people believing all omega-6s promote inflammation. This oversimplification obscures an important distinction: the inflammatory effects depend on which omega-6 fatty acid we're discussing and how it's metabolized.
Arachidonic acid, an omega-6 found primarily in animal products, does serve as a precursor for pro-inflammatory eicosanoids. When the ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids becomes too skewed toward omega-6 (particularly arachidonic acid), inflammatory conditions can worsen. This is the concern that drives recommendations to reduce omega-6 intake.
GLA, however, follows a different metabolic path. Rather than converting to arachidonic acid, GLA becomes DGLA, which competes with arachidonic acid for the enzymes that produce eicosanoids. The eicosanoids produced from DGLA tend to be anti-inflammatory or neutral rather than pro-inflammatory. In essence, GLA can actually counteract some of the negative effects associated with other omega-6 fatty acids.
This distinction matters enormously for skincare. When you apply borage oil topically, you're delivering GLA directly to skin cells, where it can support anti-inflammatory pathways without the concerns associated with excessive dietary omega-6 intake.
Why Concentration Matters
Not all GLA sources are equivalent, and the concentration of gamma-linolenic acid varies dramatically between different botanical oils. This is where borage oil distinguishes itself.
Evening primrose oil, probably the most famous GLA source, typically contains between 8 and 10 percent gamma-linolenic acid. Black currant seed oil contains roughly 15 to 17 percent. Borage oil, by contrast, contains 20 to 26 percent GLA—making it the richest known plant source of this fatty acid.
This concentration difference has practical implications. To deliver the same amount of GLA, you need significantly less borage oil than you would evening primrose oil. In skincare formulations, this efficiency matters because it affects texture, absorption, and the ability to combine the oil with other beneficial ingredients.
The higher GLA concentration in borage oil also means more efficient use of the plant material. From a sustainability perspective, getting more GLA per unit of oil production reduces agricultural footprint while maximizing therapeutic benefit.
Topical Application Versus Oral Supplementation
Research on GLA has examined both oral and topical delivery routes, with each approach offering distinct advantages. Oral GLA supplementation increases systemic fatty acid levels, potentially benefiting skin throughout the body. However, the effects are indirect—the fatty acids must be absorbed through the digestive system, transported via the bloodstream, and eventually incorporated into skin cell membranes.
Topical application delivers GLA directly to the skin, bypassing systemic metabolism. Studies using radiolabeled fatty acids have shown that topically applied oils do penetrate the stratum corneum and become incorporated into deeper skin layers. This direct delivery may produce faster local effects than oral supplementation.
For our sports recovery formulations, topical application makes particular sense. Athletes dealing with localized discomfort or inflammation benefit from applying GLA-rich borage oil directly to the affected area. The fatty acids reach the cells that need them most without requiring whole-body supplementation.
GLA and the Skin Barrier
Beyond its anti-inflammatory effects, GLA plays an important role in maintaining the skin's barrier function. The stratum corneum—the outermost layer of skin—consists of dead cells embedded in a lipid matrix that prevents water loss and protects against environmental insults. Essential fatty acids, including GLA, are crucial components of this lipid matrix.
When the skin lacks adequate essential fatty acids, the barrier weakens. Transepidermal water loss increases, leading to dryness. The weakened barrier also becomes more permeable to irritants and allergens, triggering inflammatory responses. Research has shown that people with atopic dermatitis often have altered fatty acid composition in their skin, with lower levels of GLA and its metabolites.
Topical application of GLA-rich oils helps replenish these essential fatty acids directly where they're needed. The skin can incorporate the fatty acids into its lipid matrix, strengthening barrier function and reducing the cycle of dryness and irritation that characterizes many skin conditions.
Practical Implications for Skincare
Understanding the science behind GLA helps explain why we included organic borage oil in Active Cream and Muscle Cream. For athletes and active individuals, the anti-inflammatory properties support recovery while the barrier-strengthening effects protect skin that's regularly stressed by sweat, friction, and environmental exposure.
The research also suggests that consistency matters. Fatty acid incorporation into cell membranes is a gradual process, and the benefits of GLA-rich oils build over time with regular use. Expecting immediate transformation isn't realistic, but with sustained application, the cumulative effects become meaningful.
GLA represents the kind of ingredient we appreciate most on our Washington State farm: one with genuine scientific backing, a clear mechanism of action, and a history of safe, effective use. The blue-flowered borage plants that produce this remarkable fatty acid have earned their place in our formulations.
