In 1974, at Temple University Medical School in Philadelphia, two researchers published a paper that would revolutionize skincare. Dr. Eugene Van Scott, a dermatologist, and Dr. Ruey Yu, a dermatopharmacologist, had been studying ichthyosis—a genetic skin condition causing severe dryness and scaling—when they stumbled upon something remarkable.
Their discovery validated what Cleopatra, milkmaids, and folk healers had observed for millennia: certain acids found naturally in milk possess profound effects on human skin. But unlike their ancient predecessors, Van Scott and Yu could explain exactly why.
The Temple University Breakthrough
Van Scott and Yu met at Temple University in 1968, brought together by their mutual interest in treating ichthyosis. Patients with this condition develop skin so thickened and scaly that historically, severe cases were displayed in circuses as "alligator people." The standard treatment at the time was grim: patients would soak in bathtubs for hours, then literally tear away the outer layer of their skin.
The researchers began systematically testing compounds that might loosen the thick keratinized layer without requiring such brutal intervention. They screened more than 60 substances for their antikeratinogenic properties—their ability to reduce abnormal keratin formation.
In 1974, they published their findings in the Archives of Dermatology: "Control of Keratinization with Alpha-Hydroxy Acids and Related Compounds." The paper identified that citric acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, pyruvic acid, and glucuronic acid all demonstrated remarkable effects on keratinization. When applied topically at 5% concentration, these compounds provided excellent results for ichthyosis patients—and sustained remission as long as treatment continued.
But what truly captured attention was the implication beyond ichthyosis: these same alpha-hydroxy acids could benefit normal skin, potentially addressing aging, acne, hyperpigmentation, and rough texture.
Understanding the Mechanism
Van Scott and Yu's research revealed that alpha-hydroxy acids work by diminishing corneocyte cohesion—the bonds holding dead skin cells together—immediately above the granular layer. They don't simply abrade the surface like a physical scrub; they chemically weaken the "glue" between cells, allowing the stratum corneum to shed more naturally.
This mechanism explained what ancient practitioners had observed but couldn't articulate. When Cleopatra bathed in sour milk, the lactic acid produced by bacterial fermentation was gently dissolving the intercellular bonds in her skin's outer layer. The result: smoother, brighter, more youthful-appearing skin.
Further research expanded the understanding. Van Scott and Yu's subsequent studies showed that AHAs don't just exfoliate—they increase the biosynthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagen fibers. This means AHAs can cause "substantial skin plumping and increased dermal thickness," addressing not just surface texture but deeper structural changes associated with aging.
In 1984, their follow-up paper in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, "Hyperkeratinization, Corneocyte Cohesion, and Alpha-Hydroxy Acids," provided additional evidence. AHAs were found to improve skin barrier function, increase epidermal proliferation and thickness, and restore hydration and plumpness through increases in hyaluronic acid.
From Laboratory to Industry
Van Scott and Yu didn't merely publish their findings and move on. In 1988, they founded The NeoStrata Company to develop and market the AHA products they had discovered and perfected. This represented something unusual: the same researchers who made the fundamental discovery also brought it to commercial application.
Their work spawned an entire industry. By the 1990s, alpha-hydroxy acids had become one of the most popular classes of skincare ingredients. Glycolic acid peels became standard dermatological procedures. Lactic acid appeared in countless over-the-counter products. The discoveries at Temple University had changed how millions of people cared for their skin.
The researchers received numerous accolades. In 2010, they were honored with the Innovators in Cosmetic Dermatology award at the Cosmetic Surgery Forum in Las Vegas. The Foundation for Ichthyosis and Related Skin Types held a testimonial dinner for them in 2008, recognizing both their scientific contributions and their decades of commitment to patients with severe skin conditions.
The Lactic Acid Connection to Traditional Milk Use
For those of us in the goat milk skincare world, Van Scott and Yu's work holds particular significance. Their research specifically identified lactic acid as one of the most effective alpha-hydroxy acids—and lactic acid is the naturally occurring AHA in milk.
When milk sours through bacterial fermentation, lactose (milk sugar) converts to lactic acid. This is the same compound that Van Scott and Yu proved could reduce wrinkles, improve texture, and stimulate collagen production. Fresh goat milk contains lactic acid at functional levels even without fermentation, providing gentler, continuous benefits.
The research validated what traditional practices had demonstrated for centuries. Cleopatra wasn't practicing superstition when she bathed in milk; she was applying an effective skincare treatment. The European milkmaids who developed reputations for beautiful skin weren't lucky—they were receiving daily lactic acid treatments as a byproduct of their work.
But here's what makes the traditional delivery method special: when lactic acid comes naturally in goat milk, it arrives alongside fatty acids that support the skin barrier, vitamins that nourish cells, and proteins that provide hydration. The synthetic lactic acid in most modern products is isolated from this supportive matrix. Goat milk provides the active compound in its traditional context.
What Modern Research Continues to Reveal
Van Scott and Yu's work opened doors that researchers continue to walk through today. Studies have shown that lactic acid doesn't just exfoliate—it increases ceramide production, the lipids that hold skin cells together and maintain the moisture barrier. This means lactic acid simultaneously removes dead cells AND strengthens the protective layer beneath.
Research published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology has demonstrated that lactic acid treatments significantly improve skin smoothness and reduce the appearance of fine lines. A 2020 review in dermatology literature confirmed that AHAs, including lactic acid, can address conditions ranging from acne to melasma to photoaging.
The scientists also pioneered the development of next-generation acids. Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) like gluconolactone and lactobionic acid offer AHA benefits without irritation, making them suitable for sensitive skin, rosacea, and post-procedure care. These newer compounds provide additional antioxidant and moisturizing benefits.
Why This Matters for Goat Milk Skincare
When I explain why our products at Artisan The Goat use fresh, non-reconstituted goat milk from our own Washington State farm, the story of Van Scott and Yu is part of the answer. Their research proves that the active compounds in goat milk—particularly lactic acid—genuinely work. This isn't marketing; it's validated science.
But their research also reveals something subtle: delivery matters. Van Scott and Yu found that AHAs are most effective when properly formulated—when concentration, pH, and supporting ingredients are optimized. Traditional milk bathing provided a natural optimization that modern isolated ingredients don't automatically replicate.
Fresh goat milk delivers lactic acid at gentle, continuous levels—not the concentrated jolts that can cause irritation. It provides fatty acids that support barrier function while lactic acid promotes cell turnover. It offers vitamins that nourish new cells as they emerge. This is closer to what Van Scott and Yu observed in their most successful formulations: active ingredients working synergistically rather than in isolation.
Honoring the Science and the Tradition
Every time we formulate a batch on our farm, we're benefiting from Van Scott and Yu's half-century of research. Their work transformed milk from folk remedy to scientifically validated treatment. They explained the mechanism by which ancient practices actually worked.
But we're also honoring something older—the accumulated observation of countless generations who noticed that milk made skin better. Van Scott and Yu proved they were right. They gave us the molecular understanding. They showed us what was happening at the cellular level.
The queens knew something. The milkmaids knew something. Van Scott and Yu confirmed it and explained it. And now we can combine traditional delivery methods with modern understanding, offering fresh goat milk skincare that works—and we know exactly why.
Now I have all the information needed to create a comprehensive references section for this article. Here it is:
References
- Van Scott, E. J., & Yu, R. J. (1974). Control of keratinization with alpha-hydroxy acids and related compounds. I. Topical treatment of ichthyotic disorders. Archives of Dermatology, 110(4), 586-590. https://doi.org/10.1001/archderm.110.4.586
- Van Scott, E. J., & Yu, R. J. (1984). Hyperkeratinization, corneocyte cohesion, and alpha hydroxy acids. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 11(5 Pt 1), 867-879.
- Tang, S. C., & Yang, J. H. (2018). Dual effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin. Molecules, 23(4), 863. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules23040863
- Yu, R. J., & Van Scott, E. J. (2004). Alpha-hydroxyacids and carboxylic acids. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 76-87.
- Green, B. A., Yu, R. J., & Van Scott, E. J. (2009). Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacids. Clinics in Dermatology, 27(5), 495-501.
- Ditre, C. M., Griffin, T. D., Murphy, G. F., Sueki, H., et al. (1996). Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: A pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 34(2), 187-195.
- Bernstein, E. F., Underhill, C. B., Lakkakorpi, J., Ditre, C. M., Uitto, J., Yu, R. J., & Van Scott, E. V. (1997). Citric acid increases viable epidermal thickness and glycosaminoglycan content of sun-damaged skin. Dermatologic Surgery, 23(8), 689-694.
- Rawlings, A. V., Davies, A., Carlomusto, M., Pillai, S., et al. (1996). Effect of lactic acid isomers on keratinocyte ceramide synthesis, stratum corneum lipid levels and stratum corneum barrier function. Archives of Dermatological Research, 288(7), 383-390.
- Smith, W. P. (1996). Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 35(3), 388-391.
- Berardesca, E., Distante, F., & Vignoli, G. P. (1997). Alpha hydroxyacids modulate stratum corneum barrier function. British Journal of Dermatology, 137(6), 934-938.
- Foundation for Ichthyosis and Related Skin Types. (2008). Testimonial Dinner honoring Drs. Eugene Van Scott and Ruey Yu. San Antonio, Texas, February 1, 2008.
- Dermatology Foundation. (2010). Discovery Award presented to Drs. Eugene J. Van Scott and Ruey J. Yu for research discoveries with major impact on the treatment of skin disease.
